:root {
  --bg: #ffffff;
  --soft: #f6f7f9;
  --line: #e6e8ec;
  --ink: #0a0f1a;
  --ink-2: #131a29;
  --text: #1c2433;
  --muted: #566074;
  --gold: #c8a24a;
  --gold-deep: #86691c;
  --link: #1f4fd8;
  --warn-bg: #fff5f5;
  --warn-line: #f6caca;
  --warn-ink: #7f1d1d;
  --shadow-sm: 0 1px 2px rgba(10, 15, 26, 0.05), 0 1px 1px rgba(10, 15, 26, 0.03);
  --shadow-md: 0 12px 30px -14px rgba(10, 15, 26, 0.28);
  --shadow-lg: 0 28px 60px -24px rgba(10, 15, 26, 0.45);
  --radius: 16px;
}
@media (prefers-color-scheme: dark) {
  :root {
    --bg: #0a0f1a;
    --soft: #111827;
    --line: #232c3f;
    --text: #e6eaf2;
    --muted: #a5b0c4;
    --gold-deep: #e0bb5a;
    --link: #8fb0ff;
    --warn-bg: #2a1215;
    --warn-line: #6f1d1d;
    --warn-ink: #fecaca;
  }
}
* { box-sizing: border-box; }
html { -webkit-text-size-adjust: 100%; scroll-behavior: smooth; }
body {
  margin: 0;
  background: var(--bg);
  color: var(--text);
  font: 400 17px/1.65 Inter, system-ui, -apple-system, "Segoe UI", Roboto, Arial, sans-serif;
  font-feature-settings: "cv11", "ss01";
  -webkit-font-smoothing: antialiased;
}
.wrap { max-width: 1120px; margin: 0 auto; padding: 0 24px; }
a { color: var(--link); text-underline-offset: 3px; text-decoration-thickness: 1px; }
a:hover { text-decoration-thickness: 2px; }
h1, h2, h3 { color: var(--ink); letter-spacing: -0.025em; }
@media (prefers-color-scheme: dark) { h1, h2, h3 { color: #f8fafc; } }
h2 { font-size: 1.6rem; line-height: 1.2; margin: 52px 0 6px; font-weight: 750; }
h2 + p, h2 + .note { margin-top: 6px; }
h3 { font-size: 1.15rem; margin: 0 0 4px; }
p { margin: 0 0 14px; }
.muted, .note { color: var(--muted); }
.note { font-size: 0.97rem; }
.eyebrow { text-transform: uppercase; letter-spacing: 0.14em; font-size: 0.8rem; font-weight: 700; color: var(--gold); margin: 0 0 10px; }
.skip { position: absolute; left: -999px; top: 0; background: #fff; color: #000; padding: 10px 14px; z-index: 20; }
.skip:focus { left: 8px; top: 8px; }

/* header */
.top { position: sticky; top: 0; z-index: 10; background: rgba(10, 15, 26, 0.92); backdrop-filter: saturate(150%) blur(10px); border-bottom: 1px solid rgba(255, 255, 255, 0.08); }
.bar { display: flex; align-items: center; justify-content: space-between; gap: 18px; flex-wrap: wrap; min-height: 68px; padding-top: 8px; padding-bottom: 8px; }
.logo { display: inline-flex; align-items: center; gap: 11px; font-weight: 800; font-size: 1.12rem; color: #fff; text-decoration: none; letter-spacing: -0.02em; }
.logo svg { width: 30px; height: 30px; flex: none; }
.logo small { display: block; font-weight: 600; font-size: 0.7rem; letter-spacing: 0.16em; text-transform: uppercase; color: var(--gold); line-height: 1; margin-top: 3px; }
.nav { display: flex; align-items: center; gap: 22px; flex-wrap: wrap; }
.nav a { color: #cbd5e1; text-decoration: none; font-weight: 600; font-size: 0.98rem; }
.nav a:hover { color: #fff; }
.btn {
  display: inline-block; padding: 12px 24px; border-radius: 999px; font-weight: 700; text-decoration: none; font-size: 1rem; line-height: 1.2;
  background: linear-gradient(180deg, #e3c065 0%, #c8a24a 100%); color: #1b1405 !important; box-shadow: 0 1px 0 rgba(255, 255, 255, 0.5) inset, 0 8px 18px -10px rgba(200, 162, 74, 0.8);
  transition: transform 0.15s ease, box-shadow 0.15s ease;
}
.btn:hover { transform: translateY(-1px); text-decoration: none !important; }
.btn.small { padding: 9px 18px; font-size: 0.95rem; }
.btn.ghost { background: transparent; color: #fff !important; box-shadow: inset 0 0 0 1.5px rgba(255, 255, 255, 0.35); }
.btn.ghost:hover { box-shadow: inset 0 0 0 1.5px var(--gold); }

/* hero band, used on every page */
.band { position: relative; color: #fff; background: radial-gradient(900px 380px at 88% -10%, rgba(200, 162, 74, 0.22), transparent 60%), linear-gradient(180deg, #0a0f1a 0%, #0f1626 100%); border-bottom: 1px solid rgba(255, 255, 255, 0.06); }
.band .wrap { padding-top: 30px; padding-bottom: 44px; }
.band.home .wrap { padding-top: 56px; padding-bottom: 96px; }
.band h1 { color: #fff; font-size: clamp(2rem, 4.6vw, 3.1rem); line-height: 1.08; margin: 10px 0 14px; font-weight: 800; letter-spacing: -0.03em; max-width: 22ch; }
.band.home h1 { font-size: clamp(2.5rem, 6vw, 4.2rem); max-width: 17ch; }
.band .lead { color: #c3cddd; font-size: 1.18rem; max-width: 66ch; margin: 0; }
.band .crumbs { color: #94a3b8; }
.band .crumbs a { color: #cbd5e1; }
.band .actions { display: flex; flex-wrap: wrap; gap: 12px; margin-top: 26px; }
.band .stats { display: flex; flex-wrap: wrap; gap: 14px 40px; margin-top: 38px; padding-top: 24px; border-top: 1px solid rgba(255, 255, 255, 0.12); }
.band .stats div b { display: block; font-size: 2rem; line-height: 1; color: #fff; font-weight: 800; letter-spacing: -0.02em; }
.band .stats div span { color: #aab6c8; font-size: 0.98rem; }
.crumbs { font-size: 0.96rem; color: var(--muted); }
.crumbs a { color: var(--muted); text-decoration: none; }
.crumbs a:hover { text-decoration: underline; }
.crumbs .sep { margin: 0 9px; opacity: 0.6; }

/* map */
.mapwrap { margin: 26px 0 8px; border-radius: 20px; overflow: hidden; background: var(--soft); box-shadow: var(--shadow-lg); border: 1px solid var(--line); }
.mapwrap.lift { margin-top: -64px; position: relative; z-index: 2; }
#map { width: 100%; background: var(--soft); }
.leaflet-tile-pane { filter: grayscale(0.55) contrast(0.96) brightness(1.03); }
.legend { display: flex; flex-wrap: wrap; gap: 8px 20px; padding: 14px 20px; border-top: 1px solid var(--line); background: var(--bg); font-size: 0.97rem; }
.lg { display: inline-flex; align-items: center; gap: 7px; cursor: pointer; color: var(--text); }
.lg input { margin: 0; width: 16px; height: 16px; accent-color: var(--gold-deep); }
.dot { display: inline-block; width: 11px; height: 11px; border-radius: 50%; margin-right: 8px; vertical-align: -1px; box-shadow: 0 0 0 2px rgba(255, 255, 255, 0.8); }
.lg .dot { margin-right: 0; }
.leaflet-popup-content-wrapper { border-radius: 12px; box-shadow: var(--shadow-md); }
.leaflet-popup-content { font: 400 15px/1.5 Inter, system-ui, sans-serif; margin: 14px 16px; }

/* cards and lists */
.cards { list-style: none; margin: 18px 0 0; padding: 0; display: grid; grid-template-columns: repeat(auto-fill, minmax(260px, 1fr)); gap: 14px; }
.cards a, .card {
  display: block; padding: 18px 20px; border: 1px solid var(--line); border-radius: var(--radius); background: var(--bg); color: var(--text); text-decoration: none; height: 100%;
  box-shadow: var(--shadow-sm); transition: transform 0.15s ease, box-shadow 0.15s ease, border-color 0.15s ease;
}
.cards a:hover, a.card:hover { transform: translateY(-2px); box-shadow: var(--shadow-md); border-color: var(--gold); }
.cards strong { display: block; font-size: 1.12rem; color: var(--ink); letter-spacing: -0.01em; }
@media (prefers-color-scheme: dark) { .cards strong { color: #f8fafc; } }
.cards span { color: var(--muted); font-size: 0.97rem; }
.chips { display: flex; flex-wrap: wrap; gap: 9px; }
.chips a { border: 1px solid var(--line); border-radius: 999px; padding: 7px 15px; text-decoration: none; color: var(--text); font-size: 0.98rem; background: var(--bg); }
.chips a:hover { border-color: var(--gold); }

.tablewrap { overflow-x: auto; border: 1px solid var(--line); border-radius: var(--radius); margin-top: 16px; box-shadow: var(--shadow-sm); background: var(--bg); }
table { border-collapse: collapse; width: 100%; font-size: 1rem; }
th, td { text-align: left; padding: 13px 18px; border-bottom: 1px solid var(--line); vertical-align: top; }
th { background: var(--soft); font-weight: 700; font-size: 0.82rem; text-transform: uppercase; letter-spacing: 0.08em; color: var(--muted); white-space: nowrap; }
tbody tr:hover td { background: rgba(200, 162, 74, 0.06); }
tr:last-child td { border-bottom: 0; }
td a { font-weight: 600; }
.num { text-align: right; font-variant-numeric: tabular-nums; }

.facts { display: grid; grid-template-columns: repeat(auto-fit, minmax(230px, 1fr)); gap: 12px; margin: 16px 0 0; }
.facts div { padding: 14px 18px; border: 1px solid var(--line); border-radius: 14px; background: var(--bg); box-shadow: var(--shadow-sm); }
.facts dt { color: var(--muted); font-size: 0.8rem; font-weight: 700; text-transform: uppercase; letter-spacing: 0.1em; }
.facts dd { margin: 4px 0 0; font-size: 1.08rem; font-weight: 600; color: var(--ink); word-break: break-word; }
@media (prefers-color-scheme: dark) { .facts dd { color: #f8fafc; } }
.plain { list-style: none; margin: 14px 0 0; padding: 0; border: 1px solid var(--line); border-radius: var(--radius); overflow: hidden; }
.plain li { padding: 12px 18px; border-bottom: 1px solid var(--line); }
.plain li:last-child { border-bottom: 0; }

/* tours */
.places { display: grid; grid-template-columns: repeat(auto-fill, minmax(320px, 1fr)); gap: 14px; margin-top: 18px; }
.place { border: 1px solid var(--line); border-radius: var(--radius); padding: 18px 20px; background: var(--bg); box-shadow: var(--shadow-sm); display: flex; flex-direction: column; gap: 6px; }
.place h3 { margin: 0; font-size: 1.12rem; }
.place .cat { color: var(--muted); font-size: 0.95rem; }
.place .rate { font-weight: 700; color: var(--ink); }
@media (prefers-color-scheme: dark) { .place .rate { color: #f8fafc; } }
.place .rate i { color: var(--gold); font-style: normal; }
.place .addr { font-size: 0.97rem; color: var(--muted); }
.place .hours { font-size: 0.97rem; }
.place .notice { font-size: 0.97rem; color: var(--warn-ink); background: var(--warn-bg); border: 1px solid var(--warn-line); border-radius: 10px; padding: 8px 12px; }
.place .links { margin-top: auto; padding-top: 6px; display: flex; gap: 16px; flex-wrap: wrap; font-weight: 600; font-size: 0.98rem; }

details { border: 1px solid var(--line); border-radius: 14px; padding: 2px 20px; margin: 10px 0 0; background: var(--bg); box-shadow: var(--shadow-sm); }
summary { cursor: pointer; font-weight: 700; padding: 15px 0; color: var(--ink); }
@media (prefers-color-scheme: dark) { summary { color: #f8fafc; } }
details[open] summary { margin-bottom: 2px; }

.cta { display: flex; align-items: center; justify-content: space-between; gap: 22px; flex-wrap: wrap; border-radius: 20px; padding: 28px 32px; margin: 52px 0 0; color: #fff; background: radial-gradient(500px 220px at 100% 0%, rgba(200, 162, 74, 0.3), transparent 60%), linear-gradient(180deg, #0a0f1a, #131b2e); box-shadow: var(--shadow-md); }
.cta strong { font-size: 1.25rem; letter-spacing: -0.01em; }
.cta p { margin: 6px 0 0; color: #bcc8da; max-width: 58ch; }
.warn { background: var(--warn-bg); border: 1px solid var(--warn-line); color: var(--warn-ink); border-radius: 14px; padding: 16px 20px; margin: 28px 0 0; }

.foot { margin-top: 72px; background: var(--ink); color: #aab6c8; padding: 44px 0 56px; font-size: 0.97rem; }
.foot a { color: #d7deea; }
.foot .cols { display: grid; grid-template-columns: 1.4fr 1fr; gap: 30px; }
.foot h4 { margin: 0 0 10px; color: #fff; font-size: 0.82rem; text-transform: uppercase; letter-spacing: 0.12em; }
.foot ul { list-style: none; margin: 0; padding: 0; }
.foot li { margin: 6px 0; }
.foot .fine { margin-top: 30px; padding-top: 22px; border-top: 1px solid rgba(255, 255, 255, 0.1); font-size: 0.92rem; }

@media (max-width: 720px) {
  body { font-size: 16px; }
  .wrap { padding: 0 18px; }
  .nav { gap: 14px; }
  .band .wrap { padding-bottom: 36px; }
  .band.home .wrap { padding-top: 38px; padding-bottom: 84px; }
  .band .stats { gap: 14px 28px; }
  .foot .cols { grid-template-columns: 1fr; }
  th, td { padding: 11px 12px; }
  .cta { padding: 22px; }
  .mapwrap.lift { margin-top: -52px; }
}